FAQ

• We use only full-grain Italian vegetable tan leather for our products. Vegetable tanned leather is processed the traditional way, using natural pigments such as chestnut tannins and animal tallow, never chromium or other harsh chemicals. Chrome tan leather can cause allergic reactions. Veg tan is much kinder on the skin.
• No "genuine" leather here: products stamped with "genuine leather" or "100% cowhide" only need to technically come from an animal to earn this distinction. The vast majority of mass-produced leather products are pulped, laminated, and painted scrap leather. Don't waste your time with junk.
• We know the tannery for each and every leather that we use. Most are multi-generational Tuscan family businesses who pour as much into their craft as we do at T. C. Hall.
• We stand by our work. If any part of your product fails because of a mistake or defect, we make it right. Period.

What is full-grain leather?

Full-grain leather is the truest form of leather's potential. Unlike top grain leather that has been sanded, split, or corrected for imperfections, full-grain leather retains its layers, giving it wonderful endurance and strength. Full-grain leather does not have to be thick, but it must retain its original structure. We only use full-grain leather.

What is "genuine" leather?

Ok, this gets weird. "Genuine" leather is a wide-reaching umbrella term that can mean essentially any kind of leather. Calling leather "genuine" carries the implication of of labelling a product "technically" leather. Full-grain leather is genuine leather, but not all genuine leather is full-grain. Cheap leather shoes or wallets may have a "genuine" leather stamp because only the thinnest possible layer of leather is used to earn the distinction. "Genuine" leather can also include composite materials such as when leather is shredded, pulped, and glued back together. In short, you just can't tell what "genuine" leather really is. Our leathers don't fool around with ambiguity. 

What is vegetable-tanning?

Vegetable-tanned leather is an extremely old and revered method of treating hides, wherein fats, oils, and vegetable tannin extracts such as from the bark of the chestnut tree are thoroughly infused. This age-old process gives the leather deep, rich colors, mild water resistance, and wonderful patina that only gets better with age. All this while avoiding harsh chemicals that the vast majority of consumer leathers use for tanning. Vegetable-tanning is difficult. Time consuming. Worth it. 

Where do you get your leather?

The majority of our leather comes from multi-generational tanneries (concerias) in Italy, as well as some from the few but renowned U.S. tanneries. Conceria Puccini supplies Koala (it's bovine; don't worry) and Maremma. Conceria Walpier provides the famous Buttero leather of which we are so fond. We guarantee that you will be as impressed with these leathers as we are. 

How do you care for leather?

Leather is one of the heartiest materials we have, but that kind of longevity requires a little love and care. Do not get your leather wet. Do not leave your leather in the sun for extended periods. If your leather starts to seem dry or like it is cracking, you need to moisturize, just like your own skin. We recommend a small dab of Smith's Leather Balm. 

Help! My wallet is tight!

It's true! Vegetable-tanned leather starts life pretty stiff. But that's ok! Because it is a natural material, it stretches to how you use it. If you'd like to carry a few more cards, the leather will stretch and adapt as you use it. But be warned, once stretched, the wallet will not go back to how it was when you got it. 

Why is my wallet changing colors?

This is called patina! Vegetable-tanned leather is famous for its ability to take on the shapes and colors of its every-day use. Your leather will conform to your body and slowly change color and texture over time. Wear it like a badge of honor. Leather doesn't wear out as easily as it wears in. 

Why all the hype about Italian leather?

The tanneries of Tuscany are strictly regulated and organized into the The Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium, which safeguards the legendary quality of the region's leather crafters. This is not to say that tanneries around the world cannot be equally incredible (take American tanneries Wickett & Craig or Horween, for instance), but there is truly something special about the centuries-old devotion to Italian leather.